Efficacy of a novel hydroquinone-free skin-brightening cream in patients with melasma.

Michael H Gold, Julie Biron

Index: J. Cosmet. Dermatol. 10(3) , 189-96, (2011)

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Abstract

For treating irregular skin pigmentation, a hallmark of premature skin aging, safe and effective alternatives to hydroquinone and kojic acid are being researched.Four skin-brightening actives targeting melanin formation at multiple levels, namely disodium glycerophosphate, L-leucine, phenylethyl resorcinol, and undecylenoyl phenylalanine, in an oil-in-water emulsion cream were evaluated.Twenty female patients with mild-to-moderate epidermal melasma were included. After a washout period of 1 month with a sunscreen, they continued using the sunscreen and added the novel skin-brightening cream for 12 weeks twice daily to entire face.Whereas there was no significant change in skin pigmentation during the washout, signs for uneven skin tone including melasma area and severity and appearance of lentigines significantly decreased by up to 43% after the 12-week treatment period with the skin-brightening cream. The skin-brightening complex is well tolerated, which should allow its continued use over a prolonged period of time, in particular, when comparing skin-brightening approaches with exfoliating or peeling agents.When used with a daily sunscreen, the skin-brightening complex represents a valuable alternative to hydroquinone products and can be used for maintenance or adjunct skin care with lightening therapies.© 2011 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.